Marawi is changing, but in drips and drabs. Just like any community that underwent a colossal catastrophe, the metamorphosis is snail-like. Rome was not built in a day, pundits say. But the resilience of the residents is nothing short of commendable. They have always emerged stronger after every disaster, natural and man-made.

Recall the disastrous magnitude-7.4 earthquake of 1955, the Marawi rebellion of 1972, and the 2017 siege by IS-affiliated Maute Abu Sayyaf terrorists. They arduously picked up the pieces to start anew and face tomorrow.

Now we see positive vestiges, marked by the optimism of the Maranaws, that Marawi will soon rise like a phoenix to claim its past glory.

Having said that, any narrative about the Islamic City will not be complete without describing the period covering the pre and post-2017 siege. The zeitgeist which is reflective of the ethno-religious, social and cultural milieu of those periods varies. The war against terrorists was a watershed that had a telling effect.

The Marawi of yore, before the siege, was a bustling yet conservative community. It was laid back, and in its own way, resistant to the sweeping winds of westernization and modernity. It was living up seriously to its claim as an Islamic city, the only one with such a tagline in Southeast Asia. There were no movie houses, pubs, cafés or fine-dining restaurants where one could de- stress and relax after the day’s grind.

Due to the peace problem, establishments, especially eateries, had to close shop before sunset. But being the hub of commerce as the capital of the province and the center for Islamic and western education, it was still bustling with life. There was no nightlife then to speak of as we understand it nowadays.

After the war that flattened part of the city into ruins and rubble, life for the resident victims revolved around day-to-day survival in the cramped temporary shelters provided by the government, which gave rise to “tent cities” and a desolate life. Life was characterized more by hope and anticipation for the “pabuya” or hand-outs of the government. In a way, it still is.

Fast forward to the present day. The residents are beginning to pick up the pieces. There are positive signs the hate and hopelessness brought by the siege are wearing out. They are coming to terms with their situation and adapting gradually. The city government is helping in their journey to mental and emotional recovery.

The recent Ramadan month-long shindig which brought entertainment, like a mini-train, fireworks, a row of eateries, basketball tournaments and cultural shows, to the newly constructed public structures at “ground zero” was a first for residents. The city came alive and vibrant when the religious fasting ended for the day with the “iftar” or meal — thanks to the city government which helped them overcome the trauma of the war and desolation.

The festivities were complemented by the emergence of eateries along Heaven Street, a strip on a hillside, the city’s nightlife center. It offers a wide selection of high-end restaurants, coffee shops, great music, karaoke, including budget eateries. The establishments are constructed precariously on the edge of the hill overlooking the “tent city of sagonsongan” and the verdant forest lands still rich with trees spared from the slash and burn or “kaingin” by the so-called carpet-bagger loggers.

The favorite pit stops and watering holes (alcoholic drinks are still taboo and the mayor personally led raids of pubs selling wine) of professionals is Café 67 owned by a popular lawyer-golfer, the Datu sa Bayang, and Binolawan Kape by the lake of the Ali Disomangcop family whose missus is an experienced chef, a certified hotel and restaurant management graduate.

The climate complements the attraction. Being on a high elevation it is cold most of the time and fog shrouds the restaurant patrons. One gets the feeling of being transported to the pubs of Europe. Marawi in fact had the promotion tagline: “Baguio of the South.”

The landscape may change. What is constant is the resilience of the Maranaws.

amb_mac_lanto@yahoo.com