Haunting, bewitching Teverga
Today, Teverga, a former bustling mining town, has invested on its booming agriculture and ever-growing tourism, all due to its natural blessings and historical past.

ELEVENTH-CENTURY testimony. The Colegiata de San Pedro de Teverga.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDU JARQUE FOR THE DAILY TRIBUNE
El paisaje de Teverga is truly one of nature’s best!
El municipio, some five hours drive away from the Spanish capital of Madrid, sits on the mainly mountainous and lush environs of the Asturias region in northern Spain. Bordered by the limestone peaks of Sierra de Sobia, with approximately 20,000 hectares of acreage — over half of it as forests — it plays host to local endangered species such as bears, wild boars, foxes, wolves and hares.
We came across dedicated mountaineers, loaded with all their gears, followed paths into the wooded areas. At the day’s end, they eventually camped and pitched tents, surrounded by oak, birch, beech and chestnut trees.
Another significant portion are pastures, with ganados y caballos — tamed cattle and horses — and families playing outdoor games in open spaces.

WINDING country road. Traditional homes with the imposing Sierra de Sobia at a distance.

RELIC from the Holy Land. The centuries-old image of the crucified Gothic Christ had sands from Jerusalem.
We decided to explore on foot the little barrios of Entrago and San Martin, where we followed winding country roads, to be in awe of traditional homes with their own horreos. We gazed, mesmerized, at the blooming fields of daisies, poppies, daffodils, violets, clovers, lilacs and even orchids. To make it more picturesque, Susana, our guide, repeatedly pointed to the never-seen-before local flora, to include alicaria, paxarinos, cimbalarias, globularios, manteigueiras and espachavaqueiros.
Today, this former bustling mining town has invested on its booming agriculture and ever-growing tourism, all due to its natural blessings and historical past. Teverga received the Exemplary Town of Asturias Award in 2013, which prompted a visit by Felipe, then Principe de Asturias, now Felipe IV el Rey de España.
One of the more popular daytrip sights is one worthy of an Atlas Obscura entry: the Colegiata de San Pedro de Teverga, or the Collegiate Church of San Pedro of Teverga. Dating way back to the 11th century, this was believed to be the first church in Asturias, a region never conquered by the Moors — to be constructed in the Romanesque style.
Owned by the powerful Marquis of Valdecarzana and his son, Pedro de Miranda, the site is notorious for the so-called Mummies of Teverga, the preserved cadavers of the infamous pair of father and son. Rumors abound the duo was ill-famed for their excessive abuses and mistreatments of the hamlet’s womenfolk. This led to the aristocrat’s brutal murders. We caught a glimpse of the deep gash of a sharp dagger which cut the throat of the ruler. We dared not inspect it any further, due to beliefs of curses and superstitions. Better be safe than sorry!



