Haunting, bewitching Teverga

El paisaje de Teverga is truly one of nature’s best!

El municipio, some five hours drive away from the Spanish capital of Madrid, sits on the mainly mountainous and lush environs of the Asturias region in northern Spain. Bordered by the limestone peaks of Sierra de Sobia, with approximately 20,000 hectares of acreage — over half of it as forests — it plays host to local endangered species such as bears, wild boars, foxes, wolves and hares.

We came across dedicated mountaineers, loaded with all their gears, followed paths into the wooded areas. At the day’s end, they eventually camped and pitched tents, surrounded by oak, birch, beech and chestnut trees.

Another significant portion are pastures, with ganados y caballos — tamed cattle and horses — and families playing outdoor games in open spaces.

We decided to explore on foot the little barrios of Entrago and San Martin, where we followed winding country roads, to be in awe of traditional homes with their own horreos. We gazed, mesmerized, at the blooming fields of daisies, poppies, daffodils, violets, clovers, lilacs and even orchids. To make it more picturesque, Susana, our guide, repeatedly pointed to the never-seen-before local flora, to include alicaria, paxarinos, cimbalarias, globularios, manteigueiras and espachavaqueiros.

Today, this former bustling mining town has invested on its booming agriculture and ever-growing tourism, all due to its natural blessings and historical past. Teverga received the Exemplary Town of Asturias Award in 2013, which prompted a visit by Felipe, then Principe de Asturias, now Felipe IV el Rey de España.

One of the more popular daytrip sights is one worthy of an Atlas Obscura entry: the Colegiata de San Pedro de Teverga, or the Collegiate Church of San Pedro of Teverga. Dating way back to the 11th century, this was believed to be the first church in Asturias, a region never conquered by the Moors — to be constructed in the Romanesque style.

Owned by the powerful Marquis of Valdecarzana and his son, Pedro de Miranda, the site is notorious for the so-called Mummies of Teverga, the preserved cadavers of the infamous pair of father and son. Rumors abound the duo was ill-famed for their excessive abuses and mistreatments of the hamlet’s womenfolk. This led to the aristocrat’s brutal murders. We caught a glimpse of the deep gash of a sharp dagger which cut the throat of the ruler. We dared not inspect it any further, due to beliefs of curses and superstitions. Better be safe than sorry!

Now remodeled with Baroque style, the interiors of the house of prayer have three naves and apses, plus a portico to the west. The sculptures are typical of the era’s style. A cloister, choir, and chapterhouse were built to further extend its confines.

Another sight to see within this hallowed ground is the crucified Gothic Christ, which has a tiny reliquary around His neck. Upon inspection for restoration, it contained sand that was analyzed to have come from the Holy Land, most likely from Jerusalem.

We likewise spotted knight armors and fleurs de lise, which all harkened to their Asturian mythological past.

Let’s not forget the wonderful delicacies! Every Tevergano takes it seriously. Upon suggestions, we partook in a fiesta of picadillos, callos, jamones, chorizos, and spelt bread, all prepared in traditional ways, with the most authentic ingredients possible. I was reminded of my Tia Maria, who brought her own beans and a gallon of water all the way from Teverga whenever she would visit my sister Anafe and her family in Valencia, to prepare her specialty, the fabada.

Teverga, a hidden gem in the Spanish region, is definitely a destination for those headed to the northern part of the country and that’s a guarantee.