Milano Moda Uomo: Setting the fashion BAR high for 2024

Touted as the most influential in the Milanese scene for the Men’s Fashion Week, Milano Moda Uomo made another successful run this year from 12 to 16 January in the Italian city of Milan.

The annual event commenced with prêt-à-porter and accessories collections from top brands like Prada, Gucci, Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana and Tod’s. In the end, it proved to be committed to continuing to captivate designers and trendsetters with an exciting array of sophisticated and contemporary Italian designs, as well as some international trends.

Speaking of global appeal, some of Thailand’s top actors who are also known worldwide turned up as guests in different shows. Fashion truly speaks just one language.

PRADA

While Prada’s show explored fundamental truths of humanity, such as natural instincts and emotional needs, this fall/winter collection was also about something basic. It reflects the idea of the environment and the seasons: a sense of the outdoors, of the actuality of nature and a direct expression of the desire to go outside and, to experience the world.

The clothes, in turn, reflected and reacted to their surroundings, from the disparate and distinct environments to the intricacies of the interior and exterior. Amplifying the experience was the topnotch set design created by AMO, the research and creative studio of architecture firm Office for Metropolitan Architecture. The set design juxtaposed an office interior with a natural landscape, demonstrating the paradoxical dichotomy between these two coexisting worlds.

As one of the front-row guests, Thai actor and Prada brand ambassador Win Metawin Opas-iamkajorn dazzled fans in an all-black ensemble with distressed details. He donned an ensemble of tailored pants, vest and blazer that was paired with an edgy leather jacket that debuted on the AMO-designed runway.

Prada’s head designer Miuccia Prada, as reported by the Women’s Wear Daily, described the collection as the “relationship between town and country, but make it fashion.”

GUCCI

From womenswear to menswear, newly appointed Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno immediately made a statement after he took over in November 2022. This was quite evident in his Spring-Summer 2024 Collection presented at the Ancora fashion show in September 2023, when he debuted a collection for women. This time at the Milano Moda Uomo, Sarno presented his debut collection for men at Fonderia Carlo Macchi.

“It’s a story of the joy of life, of passion, of humanity, of people, of real life, of irreverent glamour, of provocation, of confidence, of simplicity, of immediate feelings and emotions, of a specific type of art, of words — in artworks, in pictures, in spaces. A story of richness and desire. It is a story of fabulous, diverse people,” Sarno explained in an interview.

“A story of objects — shiny, cold to the touch but warm to the heart and soul, these are desirable to collect, not for a museum but to enrich everyday life. It’s a story of music and nights out, of sweat, dancing and singing. It’s a story of family, of kissing, lots and lots of kisses. It’s a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy.”

Thai actor and model Gulf Kanawut’s airport look en route to Milan was a heritage-infused Gucci Savoy travel piece from the Gucci Valigeria collection. As the first male Friend of the House for Gucci Thailand, Kanawut brought a refreshing style and look by wearing a white patterned sweatshirt paired with black leather pants, white sneakers and black bag when he attended the show.

ZEGNA

Zegna’s global creative community discovered front-row style from The Oasi of Cashmere collection. The versatile pieces can be transformed into an array of outfits that encourage freedom and effortlessness as they were really envisioned as a complete system of dressing by the luxury menswear’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori.

The inspiration for The Oasi Cashmere came from Oasi Zegna, a freely accessible nature park. It was established in the area surrounding the historic Wool Mill by the fashion brand’s founder Ermenegildo Zegna. He planted the first tree in Oasi Zegna in 1910, igniting a sustainable spirit and reforestation project that today includes over 500,000 trees and counting.

“Oasi Zegna is the center of our world and is a veritable lab,” Sartori said. “It’s a place in which we can tirelessly explore new fabrications, develop new forms and devise forward-thinking solutions for the now.

“Here we experiment with the most exquisite natural fibers and dyes while decoding functions and recoding lines to create a system that frees personal interpretation. We do so in a constant lookout for beauty and responsible commitment to the environment. We follow a wholesome idea of fashion as a transformation of fabrics, colours and silhouettes.”

Zegna invited Thai actors Norawit Titicharoenrak and Nattawat Jirochtikul (a.k.a. Gemini and Fourth, respectively). Gemini donned a gray cashmere turtleneck with matching marl trousers while Fourth, in a black cashmere turtleneck with matching loose black trousers and paired with a blazer.

DOLCE & GABBANA

For Dolce & Gabbana’s show, the Metropol multi-functional space underwent a style shift with a sculpted staircase commanding the runway that transported guests into a new dimension. The pure power of Nero Sicilia redefined the style codes of masculine charm in absolute black. Daytime attire for the Dolce & Gabbana man came to life in a playful mix of geometric cuts and contemporary proportions.

Additionally, the preference for clean lines seamlessly blended glamor and expert tailoring. As night fell, the sleek and elegant look transformed into a radiant display, featuring coats, jackets and trousers adorned with sequins or stones for a chalk-striped effect. With such refined details and clean lines, the essence of the brand evolved with sophisticated accessories, from soft clutches to precious pins and floral accents on the footwear.

Thai actors Jiratchapong Srisang (Force) and Kasidet Plookphol (Book) wore a total look each straight from the runway collection, and matched it with a pair of black sock jersey shoes. Force donned a black leather vest paired with loose black trousers. Book, on the other hand, wore a white sleeveless top complete with a tie underneath a black vest paired with black trousers.

TOD’S

Designed by Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini, the icons and the classics of menswear were revisited in Tod’s sartorial silhouettes and volumes. It then created a collection that features the quality of the materials and craftsmanship as its keystone. It is a journey across the rediscovery of the essence of Italian style through modern elegance.

Tod’s presented Pashmy, a work of research on the most exclusive and precious materials through renowned methods of Italian craftsmanship that embodies the highest expression of artisanal tradition. The Pashmy bomber was highlighted as an iconic piece in the men’s wardrobe with its essential and functional lines.

The collection itself was presented in warm browns and ecru, as well as in the cool shades of ice and teal. Not to be missed was the iconic Tod’s W.G. ankle boot in shearling, drawing inspiration from the aviation and ski worlds. The Bubble Gommino reflected the precious textures of ready-to-wear. Completing the collection was the signature Di Bag, adorned with precious variations and refined hues, from hammered leather to shearling, in tones of tan and black.

Thai actor and model Nichakoon Khajornborirak (Meen/Nicha) made heads turn at the fashion show. He donned an ensemble of beige wool blazer and classic trousers over a V-neck jumper top, plus a pair of Tod’s T timeless black leather loafers from the new collection.