Flames of remembrance: Sagada honors departed loved ones with 'saeng'

SAGADA, Mountain Province — As night falls over the mountains of Sagada, hundreds of small fires illuminate the graves of departed loved ones, keeping alive a tradition that has endured for generations.

Residents gathered at St. Mary's Cemetery on Calvary Hill on 1 November 2026 to observe panag-apoy, also known locally as panagdedenet, a solemn ritual of remembrance during All Saints' Day and All Souls' Day.

Unlike other communities where families light candles beside graves, residents of Sagada burn saeng or saleng, pieces of resin-rich pinewood that produce bright, long-lasting flames.

The practice is deeply rooted in the community's cultural and religious heritage, combining Kankanaey traditions with Christian observances honoring the dead.

For families, the fires represent more than illumination. They symbolize remembrance, reverence and the enduring connection between the living and their departed relatives.

According to local beliefs, the flames and smoke help guide the spirits of ancestors while providing warmth to families keeping vigil at the cemetery.

The observance begins with an afternoon Mass at the Church of St. Mary the Virgin, where the pinewood gathered by families is blessed.

After the service, residents proceed to the cemetery, where prayers and the blessing of graves precede the lighting of the saeng.

As darkness settles over Calvary Hill, the cemetery gradually glows with hundreds of flames, their smoke rising through the cool mountain air.

Families gather around the resting places of their loved ones, offering prayers and sharing memories as they tend to the fires.

For generations, the annual ritual has remained an intimate expression of love and remembrance, rather than a celebration intended for public entertainment.

A tradition, not a tourist attraction

Despite its cultural significance, panag-apoy has increasingly attracted tourists drawn to the sight of illuminated graves against Sagada's mountain landscape.

The growing attention has raised concerns among residents over overcrowding, unauthorized photography and commercial tour packages that portray the observance as a festival.

Ahead of this year's observance, local officials and community members reiterated that panag-apoy is a solemn religious and cultural practice that deserves respect.

One travel operator canceled a scheduled tour package after receiving criticism for promoting the ritual as a tourist attraction.

To protect the tradition, the municipal government and church authorities implemented stricter guidelines governing visitors, photography, crowd movement and fire safety.

Visitors were allowed to observe the ritual only from designated areas and with authorized tourist guides, while drone operations and disruptive activities were prohibited.

Authorities also required families to keep fires manageable and avoid burning prohibited materials.

The restrictions were intended to preserve the spiritual significance of the observance while allowing residents to honor their ancestors without unnecessary disturbance.

For the people of Sagada, the annual lighting of saeng is not a spectacle staged for visitors but a deeply personal expression of remembrance.

And as the flames continue to burn across Calvary Hill, they serve as a reminder that the bonds between the living and the departed endure long after death.