Seven Filipina chefs tell the story of the Philippines through food

What does the Philippines taste like?

There is no single answer. It can be smoky, sour, sweet, savory, earthy or bright, sometimes all within the same meal. Across the islands, food reflects the ingredients that grow locally, the traditions passed from one generation to another and the communities that have made each dish their own.

Conrad Manila is celebrating that diversity through Filipinas, an all-female chef-led dining experience that brings together seven culinary voices and flavors from different parts of the country.

The experience is part of SM Hotels and Conventions Corporation’s (SMHCC) Gateway to Gastronomy campaign, which uses its hotels as platforms for guests to discover Filipino destinations through their food. It also supports the Department of Tourism’s Food and Gastronomy Tourism Roadmap 2024–2029, which aims to strengthen the Philippines as a gastronomic destination in Southeast Asia.

Filipinas takes diners on a seven-course journey at Brasserie on 3 on Sept. 12, with each chef contributing her own interpretation of a particular chapter in the Filipino food story.

The opening course, Simula, puts a contemporary spin on tokwa’t baboy by combining tofu skin with Cordilleran etag, coconut vinegar and soy gel. Pagbukas then heads west with tuna kinilaw brightened by batwan from Western Visayas.

Paglago introduces a more modern combination through kabute at keso ravioli, bringing together kesong puti, mushroom duxelles, salted egg crème, smoked corn and tarragon foam. A calamansi sorbet then offers a refreshing interlude before the main courses.

Direksyon draws from Central Luzon, pairing maya and alugbati with black heirloom rice from Negros Island and chicken tinapa. Lakas moves south to Bicol, where beef tenderloin meets burnt coconut, labuyo pearls and creamed taro leaves.

The final course, Pamana, looks to Davao and its reputation as the country’s Cacao Capital. Guyabano, cacao, pili and San Nicolas cookie come together to close the meal with a distinctly Filipino sense of place.

“With Filipinas, we wanted to give our guests a deeper appreciation of Filipino cuisine by presenting familiar ingredients and traditions through a fresh and contemporary lens,” said Rupert Hallam, General Manager of Conrad Manila. “What makes this experience particularly special is the creative voice of our seven Filipina chefs, whose interpretations bring together the diverse flavors of the archipelago while honoring the stories and heritage behind them. It is our way of inviting guests to experience the Philippines through a dining experience that is distinctly Filipino, thoughtfully crafted, and deeply personal.”

For diners who want to experience Filipinas beyond the one-night chef’s table, the concept will continue as a four-course set menu at Brasserie on 3 beginning Sept. 12. Guests can select from dishes such as tokwa’t baboy, tuna kinilaw, maya maya at alugbati, baka at laing and kordero at piyanggang, with vegan choices also available.

Dessert gives another Filipino favorite a contemporary treatment. Halo-halo brings together ube, leche flan, macapuno, langka, buko-pandan and pinipig in a finale that feels familiar while offering something new.

For SMHCC, the significance goes beyond creating another dining option. The campaign seeks to connect food with the places, people and traditions that give it meaning.

“Filipinas demonstrates how Gateway to Gastronomy can translate our country’s rich culinary heritage into an experience that is both deeply rooted in tradition and relevant to today’s diners,” said Leah Magallanes, SMHCC Vice President for Food & Beverage, Quality, and Sustainability. “By bringing together regional ingredients, Filipino culinary stories, and the creativity of our chefs, we are not only showcasing what makes our cuisine distinct. We are creating opportunities for guests to understand the people, places, and traditions behind every flavor. This is how we see our hotels contributing to the continued appreciation and promotion of Philippine gastronomy.”

That philosophy extends across the SMHCC portfolio, with culinary initiatives inspired by local heritage, ingredients, producers and communities, including Taal Vista Hotel’s heritage-focused experiences and Pico Sands Hotel’s connection to local ingredients and fishing communities.

Filipinas makes a compelling case for food as a way of discovering a country. In the hands of seven Filipina chefs, regional flavors become chapters of one larger story, reminding diners that Filipino cuisine is not defined by one taste or tradition, but by the remarkable diversity of the islands.