Xiaolongkan’s broth might be one of the spiciest things in Manila

Clockwise from top left: Daixiao noodles, watercress, enoki mushrooms, house special marinated beef, tendon, pork brains, pork kidney Food is incredibly personal, so as this column moves along, it is inevitable that I reveal more and more of myself to the reader. This week’s slightly relevant tidbit: my love of spice. The heat I can take is the thing I boast about most; I want to believe that I could one day enter a chili-eating contest and win. My hunt for the spiciest food in Manila is never-ending, but I have stumbled upon a Szechuan contender that has been one of the hottest dishes I’ve had in recent memory.

With two branches already in operation, hotpot restaurant Xiaolongkan has become a bit of an open secret. It is one of many Szechuan and Hunan places popping up around the city in droves. All of them have varying Mainland specialties, but Xiaolongkan is purely a hotpot spot, with a one-page menu of various items to choose from. There are basically two broths, one made from chicken bones, and one from short rib, both of which can be had spicy. This broth is far, far hotter than the ones we’re accustomed to at other popular chains. It is hard to quantify or describe just how potent this thing is, so I’ll try to look for the most basic comparisons: 20 times hotter than a KFC Zinger, maybe 10 times hotter than Bad Bird’s Chemical Fried Chicken. It isn’t because it’s made with the world’s hottest peppers, but because of the sheer volume of dried chilies, Szechuan peppercorns, and chili oil that make up its base. Szechuan pepper adds a fiery, numbing sensation to dishes, only amplifying the entire pot.

The best thing about Xialongkan is the wide variety of add-ons available; there is much more to offer than just chicken, pork or beef. The menu is chock full of offal. When it comes to pork, there is heart, brain, feet, blood, and kidney to choose from — the kidney has a pleasant chew to it when stewed, and the brain is surprisingly fresh, soft and supple, absent of any rancid taste. There is even beef tendon and tripe, and odd bits of duck that are rare in Manila, from gizzard to tongue, to intestine. For the less adventurous, the special marinated beef is seriously delicious, and belly has tons of fat that curl up when dipped quickly into the soup. Even better are the options for “fresh balls,” which really just mean quickly minced and marinated meat (there’s shrimp, pork, and beef). They come in little bamboo containers and are far removed from the typical processed balls on hotpot menus. There is also an endless selection of vegetable, noodles, and tofu, which all complement the heady soups. You will inevitably be stuffed, but order both the desserts on Xiaolongkan’s menu. Pumpkin pie and brown sugar pie are not what they seem; they are essentially deep-fried mochi drenched in golden syrup and are not to be missed.

There is no doubt about the authenticity of Xiaolongkan; on all my visits thus far, I am the only one who seems to be of Filipino descent. It is like transporting yourself abroad, and you will instantly be lost in the strong smells of spice that fill the air. They often ask you if you can handle the heat, because they believe it is only for initiated tongues, and they are not wrong. It might be one of the spiciest things in Manila, and you will be paying for it the next day. But it is really the deliciousness and diversity of their offerings that are worth the visit; Xiaolongkan is a top-notch hotpot joint.

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